Hertzoggies: A Delicious and Iconic South African Sweet

When you think of Hertzoggies, picture an insanely buttery crust filled with apricot jam and topped with a puffy cloud of whipped meringue. Butter, fruit, and sugar: the things dreams are made of.

Complex in flavor, simple in preparation. These treats combine three basic techniques to create a mouthful so delightful that it has the power to change your life. I’m not kidding–that’s kind of what they were used for. Hertzoggies literally became the winning power move in a landmark South African political race. 

Can your chocolate chip cookies do that? No, they can’t.

These iconic treats combine the best of Dutch and Malaysian cultures for a memorable treat you’ll want to make again and again. If you’re craving a dessert that will blow your mind, this is it. The Hertzoggie pulls no punches with flavor!

THE HISTORY OF HERTZOGGIES: BAKING UP A POLITICAL WIN

To understand the significance of Hertzoggies, you’ll first have to understand why they were made in the first place. This podcast has some great insight into the Malay and Muslim influence on food in South Africa.

Hertzoggies were a sign of the times and historical marker in South Africa’s culinary evolution. South Africa was still in its early unification period with the British empire in the beginning of the 1900’s. Three major communities were struggling to maintain peace: Afrikaans (Dutch, Malaysian, and Muslim communities), indigenous Africans (including the Zulu and Bantu tribes), and inevitably the British Empire. This led to a series of wars and conflicts that eerily mirror US history.

A lot was going on politically during this time period. 

The race for Prime Minister of South Africa would be a fateful decision that set South Africa on the course to Apartheid. In the contest between J.B.M. Hertzog and rival J.C. Smuts, Hertzog gained support from the Afrikaans community by making big promises of equality and compromise. (Spoiler alert: his ideas for equality weren’t for everyone.)

Hertzoggies were a direct response to this political stroke. Mixing Dutch, Muslim, and Malay culinary influences, this coconutty, apricotty, buttery treat was developed by the oppressed class as a way to express support. They even went as far as naming them after Hertzog in honor of his big promises for equality.

Not to be outdone, supporters of J.C. Smuts clapped back and made their own version of Hertzoggies called Smutscakes. It’s essentially the same cookie but without the meringue topping. More than just a political election, the campaign evolved into a battle of the sweets.

The thing is, Hertzoggies were created by the Malay and Muslim communities that weren’t slaves on paper but were definitely in some sort of obligated servitude. They also did not have rights to vote, which led them to get creative in the way they expressed their views. It’s rumored that Hertzoggies and Smutscakes were used as a low-key form of political persuasion. When the servants catered both formal and casual gatherings, the use of Hertzoggies served as a way to express support from mouths that were essentially taped shut.

To keep a long (but juicy) story short, Hertzog won the election and Hertzoggies were ingrained in South African culture forever. But unlike Hertzoggies, Hertzog didn’t live up to his expectations and bakers were prompted to bake up a new batch of dissent. Hertzog’s “equality” excluded the darker skinned population which prompted a third version of the cookie. The original white cream of Hertzoggies was replaced with brown cream and called “hypocrites.” 

Hertzoggies and South Africa both have a history that is complex. In today’s world, Hertzoggies still represent the voices of those who were underrepresented in politics. They show that even “simple” things like food can be a powerful way to shape the thoughts of a nation. And even when oppressors tried to erase the contribution of these communities, their stories can always be found in the food and traditions of a nation.

OK, BUT WHAT IS A HERTZOGGIE?

Hertzoggies are a cookie and tart hybrid confection usually flavored with apricots and coconut. Its Dutch roots can be found in the buttery shortbread-style crust and jam filling. The crust is a distinctly European dough made from butter, flour, sugar, baking powder, egg yolks, and water. A few simple ingredients make a dough that is far from basic. In fact, it’s a dough used in many well-known European desserts. 

Some of the original recipes for Hertzoggies are said to have been made with an apple pie filling. This would also indicate heavy Dutch influence. But the idea that it came from Malay bakers comes from a bit of historical research. The Malay influence adds in the apricot and coconut twists. I haven’t come across too many recipes that mix coconut and apricot together. Believe me, it’s a happy discovery. 

There’s a blurred line between whether Hertzoggies are a cookie or a tart. The dough is similar to a thumbprint dough and will typically keep its shape when baked in the oven. I recommend using a muffin pan and making them into little tarts to avoid spreading issues with both the dough and the jam. Also, it helps to keep everything uniform in size. 

If you’d like more information on the cuisine from this region, check out “Cook & Enjoy” S.J.A. de Villiers, which is considered the Bible of South African cooking. Many other cookbooks have been written in recent years that outline specific dishes from non-dutch communities that contributed to South African cuisine.

MAKING HERTZOGGIES

You don’t need much baking experience to make the perfect batch of Hertzoggies. And while just about anyone can make a fantastic sweet with this hard-to-mess-up recipe, a few tips and tricks will make them the best batch possible.

• Mix the butter and flour correctly. If you’re using a food processor, make sure your butter is cold when you blend it. If you’re doing it by hand, a slightly colder room temperature is best. You want to massage the butter into the flour to make a coarse sand. This helps moisten the flour and helps it to absorb the butter instead of the egg yolks. This makes the perfect dough consistency that gets nice and flaky in the oven.
• Use cold water and eggs. You want to be able to control the temperature of the butter when making your pastry crust. Melted butter in this recipe is not a good thing because it will make a tough dough. Cold ingredients make a flakier crust!
• Prevent flopped meringue. When making meringue, it’s critical that no oil touches the egg whites. Start with a clean glass or non-reactive bowl. To be safe, you can even wipe it down with a little bit of white vinegar. Fats from egg yolks and butter–even a tiny bit–will cause your meringue to stay flat and not fluff.
• Add in sugar to the egg whites a little at a time. When egg whites and sugar are mixed together, the sugar helps strengthen the egg whites. Add it in a little bit at a time to help build structure in the egg whites. Don’t add it all in at once.
• Use preserves or pastry fillings, not jam, in your Hertzoggies. Preserves have a thicker structure than jam, which can be too watery. Use pastry fillings if you can find them in your local market. I like to use pastry fillings (fruit fillings labeled as pastry filling) because they have a thicker consistency and are made to stay together when baked.

OTHER VARIATIONS TO TRY

While apricot and apple fillings are the original fillings, there are countless ways to rethink traditional Hertzoggies. Here are a couple ideas to try:

Peach Hertzoggies: Peaches and cream are a classic Southern US combination that do fantastic in this recipe.

Chocolate Hertzoggies: Swap two tablespoons of flour for dark cocoa powder to create a decadent chocolatey base for these cookies.

Nutty Hertzoggies: Add in a handful of roasted and chopped nuts (such as almonds or walnuts) to the coconut topping for extra flavor and texture.

Cinnamon Hertzoggies: Add a teaspoon of cinnamon to the coconut filling and the crust for a warm and comforting flavor.

Pineapple Hertzoggies: use crushed pineapple or pineapple preserves for a tropical twist on the classic recipe.

Hertzoggies are a lot like tarts in that you can mix and match the flavors and make something incredible!

HOW TO STORE HERTZOGGIES

Hertzoggies can be enjoyed fresh once cooled, but they can also be stored for a short period of time. Here are some tips on how long you can keep Hertzoggies:

Room Temperature: Hertzoggies can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3-4 days. Be sure to keep them away from direct sunlight and moisture to prevent them from getting soggy or moldy. They’re Hertzoggies, not Hertsoggies.

Refrigerator: If you want to store Hertzoggies for longer than 4 days, it’s best to keep them in the refrigerator. Place them in an airtight container and they will stay fresh for up to a week.

Freezer: Hertzoggies can also be frozen for longer storage. Place them in an airtight container or freezer bag and they will stay fresh for up to 3 months. When ready to enjoy, thaw them in the refrigerator overnight and warm them up in the oven for a few minutes to restore their texture and flavor.

It’s important to note that the meringue topping on Hertzoggies may start to lose its shape and texture over time, so they are best enjoyed as fresh as possible. If you plan on storing them for more than a day, consider omitting the meringue topping and bake them plain. Then, add the meringue just before serving. Use a kitchen-use blowtorch to get the signature crisp. This will help to maintain their texture and prevent the meringue from becoming too soft or collapsing.

SOUTH AFRICAN HERTZOGGIES RECIPE

Yield: 30 Cookies

SOUTH AFRICAN HERTZOGGIES

Print

A delicious cookie featuring a buttery shortcrust base, apricot preserve filling, and topped with a fluffy torched meringue topping. So good, it inspired a political win!

Prep Time 30 minutes

Cook Time 25 minutes

Total Time 55 minutes

Ingredients

• Crust:
• 2 Cups of All Purpose Flour
• ½ Tablespoon Baking Powder
• ¾ Cup Sugar
• 1 Stick Cold Butter, Cubed
• 3 Egg Yolks
• 1-2 Tablespoons Cold Water
• Filling and Meringue:
• 1 Cup Apricot Preserves
• 3 Egg Whites
• 1 Teaspoon Cream of Tartar
• 1 Cup Sugar
• 1 Teaspoon Vanilla
• 2 Cups of Ground Sweetened Flaked Coconut

Instructions

1. To make the crust: Start off with 2 cups of flour and mix in the baking powder and sugar. Add in the butter and mix it together until the mixture becomes like a fine sand. Massaging the butter into the flour helps moisten the flour, so don’t skip that step.
   
2. Add in the egg yolks and give everything a gentle mix. You just want the eggs to get rather evenly distributed.
   
3. Add in 1 tablespoon of water and mix until just combined. If the dough is feeling dry, add in a second tablespoon. Knead until everything comes together to make a dough.
   
4. Preheat the oven to 350F and line two mini cupcake pans with cupcake liners. Alternatively, you can spray with baking spray and bake them bare.
   
5. Roll the dough into 1in/2cm pieces. Place one ball into each cavity of the cupcake pan. Use your fingers to make a well in the center of each ball.
   
6. Spoon in about 1-2 teaspoons of apricot preserves into each cavity. Set aside.
   
7. Make the Meringue Topping: To make the meringue topping, whip the egg whites and cream of tartar in a clean bowl until frothy. Continue whipping until the egg whites are thick and foamy.
   
8. Add in the sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, and mix well in between each addition. Continue mixing until the egg whites are stiff peak stage.
   
9. Add in the coconut and fold gently to incorporate. Mix until just combined.
   
10. Carefully dollop the meringue mixture on top of each cookie. Alternatively, you can pipe the mixture using a broad circle tip for cleaner presentation. Distribute the meringue evenly among the cookies, using about a tablespoon of topping per cookie.
    
11. Place in the oven and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown and toasty. Cool completely on a wire baking rack before removing Hertzoggies from the pan.

Notes

Keep at room temperature for up to 4 days or freeze in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

HOW YOU CAN CELEBRATE WITH SOUTH AFRICAN HERTZOGGIES

At Olivia Goes Global, we believe every day has something wonderful to celebrate! We love any reason to whip up a batch of something spectacular, and celebrating South African heritage is one of those reasons. Add Hertzoggies to your baking routine in honor of South Africa’s diverse culture!